As
Jetstar was making its approach to the Darwin airport, I watched the sunrise
from the plane window. It was an
incredible red line as far as I could see, separating ocean from sky. And then suddenly I saw trees on the horizon
and we were here.
We
arrived slightly late and hung over from a night with no sleep, but Denise and
Michael were waiting for us once we had cleared customs. The drive to their house took about an hour,
after a stop for gas. We had no idea
what to expect.
Turns
out they live in the bush, literally. The people who built the place in the
1980’s tried planting cypress trees, but a bush fire came through and wiped out
all but three of them out.
Michael and Denise have since created a
bird sanctuary on the land and are preserving the area as habitat for all
wildlife, not just the birds. They are both up early in the cool morning
air, clearing and maintaining the land, preserving this parcel of earth from
invasive and foreign grasses and protecting the native growth.
| Not sure you can see them, but these trees at Michael and Denise's house are full of rainbow lorikeets. |
It is dry season so things probably seem
less bushy and more scrub-like than normal. Trees grow tall here but are
mostly leafless. Native palms remind me that we are in the tropics still,
and dry grasses create the underbrush. Most of the trees I’ve never heard of
and even the familiar ones-- like eucalyptus--are a different variation than
I’m known, for instance, in California.
Bella,
Poppy, and Portia are the resident dogs, and all were delighted to meet us when
we first arrived. They are equally joyous to greet us when we wake in the morning, upon our return each day from outings, and whenever Michael throws palm nuts into the water for them to retrieve.
Nicole
and I are staying in the guesthouse. The
guesthouse is made from a cement pad, metal struts, particleboard, and
corrugated iron walls and roof. The windows were probably state-of-art in
the outback in the fifties. They are multi-levered
glass that crank open. Friends from Florida will be able to picture them.
The
appliances are all strangely simple, mostly rusted, but usable. The
toilet is outside, in a storage area and one must fill a bucket to pour into
the bowl for flushing. It’s like camping but far more comfortable.
The first morning we were here,
Nicole looked out the window and said, “Look Susan, there’s a wallabee,” but he
had hopped away before I could see him.
It’s beautiful here.
We hear all kinds of birds, day and night. We are in one of the last real wildernesses
on the planet.
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